Aubrey Gallegos’ journey to becoming a rancher is anything but conventional. After spending six years as a vegan in New York City, she made a bold decision to relocate to Washington and embrace ranching, focusing on ethical meat production and regenerative farming practices. Her journey signifies a deep reconnection with the food chain.

Since 2021, Gallegos has been managing PearlJack Farm, where she raises grass-fed lamb and pasture-raised poultry for her community in West Richland, Washington. In addition to her farming endeavors, she serves as a programs manager for the Good Meat Project, a non-profit committed to achieving a more sustainable meat system.

A Calling to Ranching

The idea of becoming a rancher emerged from her experience working on a PBS documentary titled Sweetgrass, which depicted sheep farming in the American West. Inspired by what she saw, Gallegos felt a strong calling to ranching and decided to pursue this new path.

“I was living in New York City, and so I didn’t see any way to opt out of industrial agriculture except to be vegan. The only thing that I knew was what I got at the grocery store, which came from large factory farms.”

From Veganism to Farming

Upon her arrival in Washington, Gallegos immersed herself in farming to gain practical skills. Reflecting on her transition, she shared, “I went from being vegan to slaughtering and butchering 100 chickens with a farmer.” This hands-on experience laid the groundwork for her own practices at PearlJack Farm, where livestock is raised in a regenerative manner to support the local ecosystem.

“Regenerative agriculture is about working with your local ecosystem and mimicking nature. That is the way I think about it for our farm,” Gallegos stated.

The Importance of Local Farms

Gallegos highlights the key role smallholder farms play in the global food chain, especially in times of crisis. Challenges such as securing capital and access to processing facilities are prevalent for small to mid-scale operations. She noted, “Processing is a huge pain point for small to mid-scale livestock farms. There are not enough USDA processors, and those that exist are not built for small animals or smaller operations.”

“During COVID, the larger supply chain started to fail under pressure. Local farms became a solution, already connected to their communities and capable of feeding them.”

Gallegos also pointed out the logistics of processing: “Our closest USDA processor for chicken is about a four-hour drive away. To be on time, I often have to leave the farm around midnight.”

The significance of smallholder farmers is underscored by research showing that farms under two hectares account for 30-34% of the global food supply, covering just 24% of agricultural land. This highlights the essential contribution of local farms in times of need.